Most visitors flock to Egypt's capital to explore the wonders of the ancient world, following the footsteps of the pharaohs. But there are two sides to Cairo; the city's residents embrace their history and rejoice in their progress. The ancient pyramids of Giza, Dahshur and Saqqara fight with the trendy bars of the Zamalek and Heliopolis neighborhoods for spotlight. in the narrow streets. And the traditional Islamic call to prayer, lounge music and boisterous banter can be heard simultaneously. The only way to get a true sense of Cairo is to take the old with the new.